lux - u - ry (luhg-zhuh-ree) noun [from Latin, luxus and its derivative luxuria, excess, indulgence]
1. The habitual enjoyment of or indulgence in the best and most costly things.
2. An inessential and desirable item that is expensive of difficult to obtain. See also: luxury brand.


The Museum at FIT에서 처음으로 Luxury를 주제로 그 의미가 패션 역사를 되짗어보며 어떻게 변화해왔는지 살펴보는 전시를 5월 23일부터 다음달 11월 10일까지 열리고 있다.

정치적으로 사치가 팽배했던 18세기를 돌아보는것으로 시작하는데 luxury를 지나치게 도덕적으로 부패한 의미로 바라보는것이 아니라 나라의 부에 기여할 수 있는 긍정적인 파워로 인식하는 것으로 점점 그 의미가 시대에 따라서 달라졌다.

150여점의 작품들이 18세기의 가장 귀족적인 럭셔리 패션에서부터 현대의 Worth, Poiret, Chanel, Dior, Balenciaga등의 디자이너들의 의상과 Hermès, Lanvin, Chanel등의 액세서리까지 선보인다.

Robe à la française
Yellow silk taffeta brocade
Circa 1735, France or Italy
The Museum at FIT, 2006.56.2, Museum purchase

LEFT:
Spencer jacket and skirt
White cotton
Circa 1819, England
The Museum at FIT, P88.28.2, Museum purchase

Shawl
Wool and silk
Circa 1835, possibly Scotland
The Museum at FIT, P86.71.2, Museum purchase


MIDDLE:
Apron
Ivory silk gauze
Circa 1820, France or England
The Museum at FIT, 2007.12.3, Museum purchase


RIGHT:
Dress
Cream silk satin, tulle, chiffon
Circa 1830, Russia
The Museum at FIT, 2007.12.4, Museum purchase

LEFT:
Afternoon dress
Grey silk moiré
Circa 1860, England
The Museum at FIT, 2006.56.3
Museum purchase

Shawl
Wool
Circa 1870, Scotland
The Museum at FIT, 78.48.4
Gift of Ethel Rabin


MIDDLE:
Furnishing Fabric
Silk and embroidery
Circa 1870, France
The Museum at FIT, 75.109.64
Gift of Mrs. William Randolph Hearst, Jr.


RIGHT:
Two-piece day dress
Dusty rose silk ottoman and silk velvet
Circa 1859, USA
The Museum at FIT, P91.23.3
Museum purchase

Maison Worth
Two-piece evening dress
Yellow silk brocade with chenille and seed beads
Circa 1883, France
The Museum at FIT, 79.40.5, Gift of Jessie L. Hill

Emile Pasquier
Ballgown
Green/brown changéant silk velvet, lace, beads,
rhinestones, and gold metallic cord
Circa 1889, France
The Museum at FIT, P91.55.6, Museum purchase

Gabrielle “Coco” Chanel
Evening chemise
Pink silk crepe chiffon
Circa 1925, France
The Museum at FIT, P83.39.8, Museum purchase

Paul Poiret
Evening chemise
Gold silk chiffon, beads, and rhinestones
Circa 1926, France
The Museum at FIT, P83.5.9, Museum purchase

Pierre Balmain
Evening gown
Cream silk satin and black velvet; net underskirt
Circa 1960, France
The Museum at FIT, 84.103.5, Gift of Mrs. Roger Tuteur

LEFT:
Traina-Norell (for Nan Duskin)
Subway coat and dress
Coat: cashmere and sequins
Dress: camel silk jersey with gold sequins
Circa 1958, USA
The Museum at FIT, 68.143.6, Gift of Lauren Bacall


RIGHT:
Norman Norell (for Evelyn Byrnes)
Evening coat
Dark green velvet with white mink fur
1970, USA
The Museum at FIT, P86.43.1, Museum purchase

LEFT:
Valentino
Coat
Ivory double faced wool; leather and gold chain
Couture, circa 1972, Italy
The Museum at FIT, 79.187.20, Gift of Ethel Scull


MIDDLE:
Valentino
Cocktail dress
White cotton lace, rhinestones, and beads
Circa 1965, Italy
The Museum at FIT, 73.35.12, Gift of Harriet Weiner


RIGHT:
Yves Saint Laurent
Evening tunic and hot pants
Brown organza, sequins and beads
Fall 1969, France
The Museum at FIT, 74.107.8, Gift of Lauren Bacall

Gabrielle “Coco” Chanel
Evening dress and coat
White sequins and silk
Spring 1970, France
The Museum at FIT, 91.255.7, Gift from The Estate of Tina Chow

Manolo Blahnik
Orientalia mules
Gold metallic lizard with faux pearl and crystal bead ornament
Originally designed in 1989, England
The Museum at FIT, 98.77.4
Gift of Manolo Blahnik

Hermès
Kelly bag
Navy blue leather
2000, France
The Museum at FIT, 2002.96.18, Gift of Laura Solomon in memory of Sally Solomon

Rodarte
Dress
White organza, silk tulle, and feathers
Spring 2007, USA
The Museum at FIT, 2007.13.1, Museum purchase

Viktor & Rolf (for H & M)
Wedding dress and veil
Ivory silk organza and satin
Fall 2006, The Netherlands
The Museum at FIT, 2007.17.1, Gift of H & M

Max Mara
Day ensemble
Camel cashmere; wool flannel; viscose stretch jersey;
leather and suede
Fall 2002, Italy
The Museum at FIT, 2003.43.1, Gift of Max Mara

Lanvin
Necklace
Glass beads wrapped in
silk jersey, with crystals
Fall 2006, France
The Museum at FIT, 2007.10.2, Museum purchase

Chado Ralph Rucci
Evening dress and belt
Black crinkle silk chiffon; leather
Couture, 2003, USA
The Museum at FIT, 2004.52.4, Gift of Mrs. William McCormick Blair, Jr.

Louis Vuitton (Marc Jacobs)
Oxfords
Gilt leather with mink and silk
Fall 2004, France
The Museum at FIT, 2005.53.1, Gift of Louis Vuitton